More from New York

Prabal Gurung



Um, wow. I am so very in love with this collection -- the color palette, the slightly unkemptness of it all and to find it was inspired by the fading Miss Havisham, well, as a literary lover, it makes me love it even more. (Although I would like to disclaim that Great Expectations has never made its way into my canon of favorites, I can completely get behind any literary reference in fashion as long as it as beautiful and as misfit as this.)

When I got done watching the show all I could say is, Prabal Gurung is a genius. It's that simple.

Jill Stuart




If you didn't click on the first trio of shots to see the detail in the very literal interpretation by Jill Stuart of Heidi Specker's photographs of the Black Forest in Germany, you are missing out. If you said to me, at any given moment in my life, there will be a dress with owls on it and you will fall head over heels to wear this dress, I would have laughed. If I don't have said dress, I may in fact implode!

What I love best about this collection, other than the colors and her interpretation of those photographs, is that she took something very organic -- which could have gone the way of being entirely too earth mother -- and made it sing with variety, feminism, and a hint of glamour. I love the way the pleating on the dresses almost feels like the unfolding wing of a bird perched high on a limb in the navy blue glow during the pitch of night.

What I also love about this line is that I don't tend to be seduced easily by Stuart's line -- to no offense of her, she is a fantastic designer. I've always liked but not necessarily loved it. This, well this I love. Every single piece of it.

Edun


Irish designer for Edun Sharon Wauchob is another new favorite in my book. At first, I was drawn just to the silhouette of these designs but on further inspection, I was completely wowed by the prints. The third just reminds me of the sea after a storm and the other two of mosaics. However, it seems that Wauchob found her inspiration in Romany culture, specifically wallpapers from the period. Stunning.

Vivienne Tam

Tam's collection was inspired by the Chinese Opera. I typically fall for her prints with her ancestral influence injected in every thread, but with this collection, I really struggled to find three that I liked. But you know I wasn't there and live, it was probably a wonderful show. The second reminds me of an old piano shawl and is therefore my absolute favorite. The more casual pieces were a bit heavy in my opinion compared to the delicacy of these frocks.

United Bamboo


Oh, phenomenal outerwear! How I love thee so! Also love the mix of navy, gray and black. It's soft military/menswear-esque, super feminine and although the outerwear seems very heavy, it's softened every so perfectly by the lady like shoes and legwear. I want.


threeASFOUR

Strolling through the footage of the threeASFOUR show, I couldn't help but think, "I can't see the clothes!" Turns out I wasn't the only one as this was a common complaint coming from all editors-at-large and the minions beneath them (just fyi, I am at least like a 30th tier minion as far as my ranking goes in the fashion press -- essentially, I don't rank so minions be insulted not!)

The show was inspired by stringed instruments and the relationship of sound and form. These two looks I thought were very interesting and cut really well. I am coveting the leather jacket with those pants! But overall, the collection was just too literal for my liking and I think the production took away from the mission I think they were trying to accomplish.

Suno

All I have to say is that designers Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty said they were inspired by old ladies and that I love. I have the pleasure of having several very fashionable older ladies in my life, both personally and professionally so I get how you would be inspired by them.

I also love and want all three of these dresses with their slightly crazy pattern mix and stacked shoes. Come to think of it, I'll also take the hair.

Mandy Coon

Stark and severe but I love the proportions and am now officially hooked on the long full skirt and dare I say, this Fall RTW showing has quite possibly triggered a desire in me for leather. But then I love a strong, dark, powerful female. Tres chic!

Libertine

Ah, Libertine! There you are! I was starting to worry...it's been awhile since last we talked.

So it turns out that Libertine didn't disappear, they were just maybe in cocoon mode waiting for this fresh energy to turn out this totally color 'wow' collection. I love the symbiosis of 60's inspired shapes with this veritable mixture of matrix prints. I am especially coveting the coat on the far right.

Kimberly Ovitz

On the one hand, she's a young designer who is still finding her legs. On the other hand, she's got that yellow and black dress pretty much down to a laser-cut science. I like the first look because, well, it's moody (keep your comments to yourself). And although I don't fully understand the straight-jacket-come-sweater on the far right (nor the strange pants lurking underneath), I like it. It makes me want a rainy day and a cup of hot tea.

Jeremy Blaing

I'm a sucker for draping. When I was in fashion design school, it was absolutely my favorite class outside of history of costume. These pieces are beautifully and magically draped. The middle is practically an Erte come to life and that coat is just divine.

G-Star

I'll admit I have never been aboard the G-Star parade float. The line has always been so over the top that I couldn't bear to even make it through the whole show. But I like this collection -- it feels a bit more grown-up, a hair more chic and definitely better edited.

Again with the leather -- I may be developing a habit.

doo.ri

Wasn't my favorite doo.ri collection to date but I am a sucker for this shade of blue and black together. The draping, too...amazing. Of course she's known for that. I also love the boots.

Costello Tagliapietra


The collection was inspired by the '70's and the '90's. What caught my eye most was definitely the color and the flow of the dresses! Gorgeous and romantic, I want every one -- especially the green. What an amazing dress and what a unique shade. And what is this I see? Bare legs -- may be the first I've seen out of any of the fall collections. It's so what I'm used to having given up most legwear ages ago; now, of course, I find myself in Givenchy hosiery almost daily if there is a skirt or dress involved.

Altuzarra

Also inspired by the '90's, specifically grunge and Kate Moss' penchant for wearing tiny-argyle-nothings under huge parkas during that decade, Altuzarra managed to nail the look without going too nostalgic. It's just simply sexy and I dig that.

Adam
Amazing collection considering that designer Adam Lippes lost almost his entire collection weeks before the show to a fire; he was able to salvage his show, quite brilliantly, with the help of -- get this -- a nearby knitting circle. What a story to tell. The show itself told a story of Native American infused indigenous-looking knits, dresses, and separates to much aplomb.

Alexander Wang

It's a good thing I overindulged on coffee this morning because getting to the end of this takes a lot of energy! So much to think about, so much to write! If you've made it this far, I thank you. Alexander Wang delivered to me what I was so dearly missing from Rag and Bone this year -- some downtown powergirl chic. I adore the skinny pant in pink -- and, no, I can't believe those words came out of my mouth either but paired with the heavy black, they look tough. They are also available in blue! Fabulous.

Ok, my pets, more to come!

xoxo,
kvlm

Day Oneish of NY Fashion Week

So yesterday's post was Part 1 of Fashion Week but the runway didn't really start until yesterday. Behold...

Wes Gordon

I am completely in love with Wes Gordon. What a magnificent and romantic collection. And the setting really lent itself to the all over feel of his aesthetic. It was a little Garbo-Hepburnesque but at the same time, made me pine for Dorothy Parker and the Algonquin Roundtable. J'adore!

Wayne

Wayne is probably better known for the leather she put down this fall's runway but I fell for the draping in looks one and two and the urban appeal of the third look. All of it very powerful.

Tess Giberson

No, I don't typically like fur and I'll take faux over real any day of the week, but these were definitely my favorite of Giberson's looks -- well really I think it was the onset of my rekindled love for outerwear. Oh how I love fall...

Christian Siriano

We all know I love Christian Siriano -- his personality, his design skills, etc. But I'm unsure on this one. The looks above won me -- they are quintessential Siriano, though maybe edited more so than in collections past. The pink and gray is absolutely stunning and the middle look, well....something about it reminds me a little of McQueen which is always appreciated (though maybe it's because McQueen is on my mind given it's the year anniversary of his passing).

But this....this I'm not sure of. The first look just does not look like him at all -- and maybe it's because he hired a stylist to help tone down his sometimes overindulgent take on fashion. But that's what we all love about him; he's over the top but it works -- obviously, he's the only Project Runway winner that has just about become a household name.

I like the second look in this line up but when I saw it, I didn't think Siriano -- I thought maybe that model got lost coming over from Calvin Klein...probably she is delirious from food deprivation. And while I do like the way the third dress floats, there is something about it that still is off his mark.

Please, New York, don't ruin Siriano by shoving him into your box. Let creativity be.

Ruffian

Fun. Black. Party frocks. Sexy and playful. You really can't go wrong there.

Richard Chai Love

Again with my addiction to outwear. I love how chic and clean these first two looks are and, obviously, I love the pants. They are pants right?

Rebecca Taylor

Heaven, heaven, heaven. All of it, right down to the legwear! Sign me up!! It's a little '40's inspired and that is always, always ok in my book.

Rebecca Minkoff

Very powerful and sexy. I love the leather jacket with the long flowing skirt, another trend that is happening on a lot of runways. Lower your hems, girls. It just says New York to me, in that good let's go down to the Village and have a coffee then roam every fashion venue for an entire day way. I could really use one of those.

Rag and Bone

Tres disappointed with this collection. I am such a huge Rag and Bone fan and I always look for them to bring me my much needed dosage of downtown-badass-fempower looks. And this...well, this just isn't it. Honestly, when I look at this trio of representations, I see Scotland. Normally, that would thrill me given my affinity for the country. However, it's not the country I see, it's the flags. It's the yellow and red lion mixed with St. Andrews cross compiled into legwear that looks worthy of a ski lift and dresses that are worthy of, well, kilts? Or better yet, lining up for William Wallace's battle. Just give me a can of blue war paint.

The whole collection smacked of those two pages in my childhood encyclopedia that covered all of the major flags of the European nations. I am all about finding inspiration in vague places but this...this is a bit much.

Rachel Comey

Also feels a bit '40's to me. I love the outerwear, the deconstructed coat on the left is unexpected with that floral skirt but it works beautifully. I love the combination of rust colors in the second look that make it seem almost vintage and the mutton sleeves on the third coat make me swoon.

Peter Som



Peter Som's tailoring is in a word glorious. I love how streamlined his collections are but they also don't lack curves -- a harmonious balance. Romantic without being over the top, nostalgic without being too specific which makes him quite the contemporary.

Luca Luca

Lady-like and quaint, I really love the color palette. And the shoes.

Jenny Kayne

Jenny Kayne's line also strikes a balance -- of minimalism without the sacrifice of sex appeal. So often, minimalist looks wind up straddling that fine line between clean/simple and complete androgyny. I am, even though I tend to go for the glam or the dark, attracted to minimalist looks but often get turned off by how clinical they are -- and how un-womanly. These pieces capture all of that and I simply love the color-drenched separates.

Jason Wu



There aren't enough words -- clearly my favorite collection so far, Jason Wu shines once again. The world should write him a love letter. It was a clear cut of sexy androgynous looks mixed with total feminism. Very sexy indeed, right down to the show's production.

How did we ever live without Jason Wu before? Every woman should own at least one of his dresses -- they are truly awe-inspiring. Just ask Mrs. Obama.

More later -- so much more. New York never sleeps, you know, especially when there is fashion to be had.

xoxo,
kvlm

Fall 2011 RTW: Part 1

I'm house bound and car-less thanks to our good friend snow and finally taking a break from my domestic goddess duties to gaze longingly at all of the coverage coming out of New York. My picks from each collection that has traipsed out so far are...

as always, click on images for larger view

St. John

These top three are actually not my favorites and while I try to not say anything too terribly negative during the shows, I just have to ask a simple question here: what in the bloody hell St. John? I am pretty sure those are falconry gloves for one thing; and for another -- this is just simply not St. John. I am confused by these pseudo-Ralph Lauren-scary-bridesmaid-from-a-time-gone-by looks. Confused and scared I tell you!!

Ah...this is more like it. This is what I expect from a dose of St. John. Prim, lady like, very Town & Country. I really adore the trapeze coat -- it is one of a few I've seen in the line up for fall.

Willow

Very sophisticated looks from Willow; tailored, sharp but still romantic. And I love how urban they made equestrian feel.


Steven Alan

I don't tend to get down with too much 1970's inspired fashion but this I like. It's standard boho chic and I completely get behind that.

Z Spoke Zac Posen

A year after its launch, Z Spoke is defining its creator's very words: Z Spoke is "a line for the strong willed business women who transforms into an elegant, downtown creature at night." It's a fun line and would definitely attract a very diverse clientele. Well done, of course, Mr. Posen -- not that anyone ever had any doubt. I love the styling and of course, Coca Rocha (above) and Crystal Renn (below) are two of my favorites. (Though somewhat disappointed that Crystal has gone all "typical model" on us and lost her Rubenesque figure but at least she is healthy.)

Organic by John Patrick

This wool coat on the left is ridiculously yummy. She looks like a Russian spy from 1946. And the yellow? Can I have it in every color? Also love the styling of this show with the Hunter lace up black boots -- I've gotten pretty tired of the Hunter Wellies since every girl this side of the Nordic Sea under the age of 40 has a pair, but these are different. They are a little more "go to hell" and I like that in my boots. (Sadly, they are yet unavailable on Hunter's website.)

Norma Kamali

Oh, Norma. How I love thee! Ok, honestly, I could probably only get away with the second look but the first and third are just fun and so Norma Kamali. I adore her. Right down to her perfectly framed glasses (that I have subsequently been coveting for years and have yet to buy).

Nicholas K

You know me, if there is plaid involved or any small pulse of Highland inspiration, I'm in. Gorgeous, romantic, yet a little rough around the edges. Does it say "I'm off to fight the battle on my own while looking wistfully fetching and wanting to be swept up?" Sure it does; and there's nothing wrong with that.

Lyn Devon
There was something almost a little too comfortable about this collection that turned me off -- hey, I do not look good in sweats and I can admit that. Comfortably. But these three looks I found pretty, soft and easy -- which I suppose is the whole point.

Gary Graham

A little messy, a little punk, a little boho and is that a little Joan Jett? Well, in any case, I'm a little intrigued. It wasn't exactly what I would call my aesthetic but it was interesting and fun. It's been a few seasons since the runways have been fun so I say go for it!

BCBG Max Azria

I'm admittedly confused by my emotions when it comes to BCBG Max Azria. I really want to like it and I like certain elements of it -- I mean it is very easy chic and very fluid in the way that it falls -- which I like. But I'm never 100% on board. I feel like, for this collection, I need to be on board...the Star Trek Starboard Bow. Yes, its a bit futuristic-Trek uniform for me in places but I do love the color story and I adored the full skirts with (yes) more "go to hell" boots. But the sheer white turtlenecks were too clinical and felt too heavy. Under a sweater in 11 degree weather (like today)? Perfect. But under a frock? I'm not so sure.

More from NY later!

xoxo,

kvlm

Valentine's Day and Rachel Zoe

Ok, those two things but not necessarily together. I know I just posted but since I visited the past, I felt it important to highlight the present and the future as well -- gotta stay current, right?

Future first: mark your calendar (or at least leave yourself a little sticky on your computer monitor, ribbon around your finger, alarm? whatever) for the February 14 unveiling of Urban Outfitters bridal line. I'll admit, I was scared when I read this at first and even more so while waiting for the site tease to load. I like UO for certain things but for bridal? I was really scared the page would open to some malnourished dark-haired hipster who could just not relinquish her cool for the 12 hours it takes to carry out your nuptials in style.

I will gladly say I was wrong...this is quite beautiful: www.bhldn.com. I am kind of in love with the music, the not terribly defining (tease) shots make me all warm and gooey (like a bride should feel -- mission accomplished UO marketing team) and the sparkly shoes with the pom poms? Um, sign me up. I would renew my vows for those chaussures.

And speaking of things I was scared of, Rachel Zoe's newly designed/launched fall line has just made its way to the public eye. Don't get me wrong, I don't dislike Rachel Zoe -- she's an excellent stylist. But I get a little side-eyed about non-trained (read: you-didn't-go-into-any-kind-of-debt-for-a-design-degree-nor-do-you-know-how-to-sew) celebrity types adding "fashion designer" to their resume. But if anyone is going to do it, it may as well be a stylist. At least they actually know about clothes in some sort of academic sense and not in just some, "OMG I totally love this" sense.

Her line is not bad. I found myself extremely attracted to these particular ensembles:



My only criticism? (Come one, you knew there'd be at least one.) I feel like I've seen a lot of this before either on her or on a runway. Particularly, it felt a little Kors-y-Mizrahi-ish-Ford-ic. I mean the red suit is almost identical to Tom Ford's for Gucci red velvet of the '90's (that I still dream about on occasion). But I like it nonetheless and no doubt, given her total schtick, it will do very well.

Next thing you know, she'll be designing military baby jackets with short ruffley skirts and 2" heel crib shoes; she is, afterall, pregnant. I may have to draw the line there. Careful, Ms. Zoe. We shant press our fashion luck.

xoxo,
kvlm