What's Up New York!

After a week of unplanned overtime on the job front, I'm finally getting caught up on Fashion Week! Oh, hoorah! So much is going on in London as we speak, I don't even want to look because I know I'll fall madly in love and not give New York a second thought. Sorry, New York, but I continue to feel a clinical and distant appreciation for your production while feeling strongly seduced by what's across the pond. Step it up, America, the future doesn't have to be so bleak.

Theysken's Theory

I love the diversity of this collection and though I wouldn't normally highlight denim, I love the styling of this look. Also, j'adore the velvet military duster and really would like to just live in it for awhile.

The Row

Mary Kate & Ashley finally impressed me with their Row collection -- this is actually wearable and quite interesting instead of depressing and shapeless.

Anna Sui

Inspired by the Ballet Russes exhibit at the V&A. As always, Sui delivers a lot of character but I still think I've reached the max age limit to even consider her work.

Ralph Lauren

Quite possibly the most perfect trifecta of black dresses seen on a runway in ages.

I am also loving Lauren's Asian-inspired touches within a 30's motif.

Naeem Khan

Gorgeous and ornate, in other words standard Naeem Khan.

Monique Lhuillier

Love this collection -- very French, very coquettish. The texture gives it so much life you don't even really notice the minimal color palette.

Marc Jacobs

I get that Marc went with the reinvention tour on this one, reinventing some of his earliest designs in much more structured models, but I..am...just...not...into...this. I know, I know, it's sacrilege especially given my constant outpouring of adoration for his work but, yeah, just not feeling these two above.

These three are more my speed but I'm still concerned.

Isaac Mizrahi

I love that Isaac Mizrahi is...well...so Isaac Mizrahi. He's not afraid to have fun on the runway and does New York need a heavy dose of his chutzpah! These pastel dipped confections mixed with actual baked confections and matching poodles to boot? I love! It's fun and flirty and every girl needs that on occasion.

Malandrino

If that third look was a dress, we'd have ourselves a full cauldron.

L'Wren Scott

L'Wren Scott always nails it, even when she's keeping things simple.

L.A.M.B.

This collection was sent out in several separate global influenced montages, if you will. I appreciate Gwen Stefani's open-minded nature that allows her to draw inspiration from all different cultures and sources around the world but it was a bit over kill. Plus, I can't not look at her line and just see her. If I want to look like Gwen, I could go to the costume store for about 10% of the price. Just sayin'.

Jenny Packham

Love. All Oscar-worthy (which is just a few days away).

Imitation

Soft glamgoth? Sure!

Carolina Herrera

Sometimes I feel like the motifs at Herrera get a little overworked but, at the same time, I am always a sucker for her dresses -- as are 100 movie stars so I'm sure we will see plenty of this on Sunday.

Diane von Furstenberg

I wasn't crazy about this collection; it felt a little overdone to me as well. But I love these first two looks -- especially the second which seems uber-eccentric for DVF. The third dress, while not my cup of tea, is a popular trend in evening wear these days, don't ask me why -- Linda Evans called, she wants her look back.

Derek Lam

Soft, billowy, romantic but still edgy. Love that guy.

Donna Karan

Donna Karan got some negative feedback on this show -- too stark some said, lady-like has been done 100 times other said, Grace Kellyisms are played still others said. I'm sure this will come as no shock to you given my penchant for vintage and all things classic Hollywood, but I love it. No, I wouldn't necessarily put all the pieces together because I'd feel like I was a pie away from the Women's Club, but a relaxed version of these could be oh so chic.

Dennis Basso

Makes me long for the Aran Islands and cool Irish breezes.

Creatures of the Wind

I think the copy on this collection that quoted the designers as saying the show was about sailors' wives and what they called the "romanticism of waiting for a husband they don't know for sure is coming back" really played into the seduction. I want them all now.

Christian Cota

I love the contrast; it's really appealing.

Chado Ralph Rucci

My favorite thing about this show was the architecture of the pieces -- obviously why he is known as the only American couturier.

Chris Benz

I am wildly in love with the Chris Benz collection inspired by the architecture, spirit and all too believable and enchanting ghost stories of Savannah, Georgia. Just lovely.

Carlos Miele

Once again, I do not like fur unless it's in faux formation but I am completely in love with these velvet pants and the harem-esque skirt. They are all divine.

Badgley Mischka

This is the most "breakout of our comfortable mold" I've seen the boys in awhile! I love these cocktail dresses, such a refreshing change from their ultra-formal, ultra-girly floor sweeping frocks of years gone by. These are much more fun, more powerful and scads sexier without relinquishing the level of class their garments are known for.

Betsey Johnson

Another American designer who knows how to have fun, this show really looked like it was a blast! She showed two different lines, a lot of throwback to classic Betsy, and a parade of Betsey look-alikes including men and women in fringe-banged blond wigs -- all on Valentine's Day, hence the rose parade in the middle shot. The second line was the official introduction of her new lower priced Pink Patch Line. You can't not love her, her spirit is simply contagious.

Bibhu Mohapatra

An interesting and creative blend of contemporary lines with really vintage-influenced pieces. I like that. A hard chord to strike, I think this is quite balanced.

Bill Blass

Another one I adore -- and I'm so glad to see the breath of life sweeping back through this line. Bill Blass is a legend and it's exciting to see a show of this caliber in his name again. I am loving the very Catherine Deneuve circa 1970's feel of it all.

Barbara Tfank

To say that something is lacking when watching a show online vs. watching it live must be a staggering understatement because for the most part, Barbara Tfank's show got good reviews. To me, from where I sit late at night, the house full of snoring boys, I thought it was just too mall/mother of the bride/bad prom dressy for me. But I did love what she did with leather -- especially in these two looks.

Alice & Olivia

Adore. Adore. Adore. And want it all.

A Detacher
There is something so subtle about these looks that they becoming terribly entrancing. I just love the simplicity but the strength of each piece. Of course it doesn't hurt that the line was described as "active wear for reading" which I've been waiting for my whole life.

3.1 Phillip Lim

Not my favorite 3.1 Phillip Lim show ever presented but he's still a favorite.

London is next -- stay tuned!
xoxo,
kvlm

More from New York

Prabal Gurung



Um, wow. I am so very in love with this collection -- the color palette, the slightly unkemptness of it all and to find it was inspired by the fading Miss Havisham, well, as a literary lover, it makes me love it even more. (Although I would like to disclaim that Great Expectations has never made its way into my canon of favorites, I can completely get behind any literary reference in fashion as long as it as beautiful and as misfit as this.)

When I got done watching the show all I could say is, Prabal Gurung is a genius. It's that simple.

Jill Stuart




If you didn't click on the first trio of shots to see the detail in the very literal interpretation by Jill Stuart of Heidi Specker's photographs of the Black Forest in Germany, you are missing out. If you said to me, at any given moment in my life, there will be a dress with owls on it and you will fall head over heels to wear this dress, I would have laughed. If I don't have said dress, I may in fact implode!

What I love best about this collection, other than the colors and her interpretation of those photographs, is that she took something very organic -- which could have gone the way of being entirely too earth mother -- and made it sing with variety, feminism, and a hint of glamour. I love the way the pleating on the dresses almost feels like the unfolding wing of a bird perched high on a limb in the navy blue glow during the pitch of night.

What I also love about this line is that I don't tend to be seduced easily by Stuart's line -- to no offense of her, she is a fantastic designer. I've always liked but not necessarily loved it. This, well this I love. Every single piece of it.

Edun


Irish designer for Edun Sharon Wauchob is another new favorite in my book. At first, I was drawn just to the silhouette of these designs but on further inspection, I was completely wowed by the prints. The third just reminds me of the sea after a storm and the other two of mosaics. However, it seems that Wauchob found her inspiration in Romany culture, specifically wallpapers from the period. Stunning.

Vivienne Tam

Tam's collection was inspired by the Chinese Opera. I typically fall for her prints with her ancestral influence injected in every thread, but with this collection, I really struggled to find three that I liked. But you know I wasn't there and live, it was probably a wonderful show. The second reminds me of an old piano shawl and is therefore my absolute favorite. The more casual pieces were a bit heavy in my opinion compared to the delicacy of these frocks.

United Bamboo


Oh, phenomenal outerwear! How I love thee so! Also love the mix of navy, gray and black. It's soft military/menswear-esque, super feminine and although the outerwear seems very heavy, it's softened every so perfectly by the lady like shoes and legwear. I want.


threeASFOUR

Strolling through the footage of the threeASFOUR show, I couldn't help but think, "I can't see the clothes!" Turns out I wasn't the only one as this was a common complaint coming from all editors-at-large and the minions beneath them (just fyi, I am at least like a 30th tier minion as far as my ranking goes in the fashion press -- essentially, I don't rank so minions be insulted not!)

The show was inspired by stringed instruments and the relationship of sound and form. These two looks I thought were very interesting and cut really well. I am coveting the leather jacket with those pants! But overall, the collection was just too literal for my liking and I think the production took away from the mission I think they were trying to accomplish.

Suno

All I have to say is that designers Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty said they were inspired by old ladies and that I love. I have the pleasure of having several very fashionable older ladies in my life, both personally and professionally so I get how you would be inspired by them.

I also love and want all three of these dresses with their slightly crazy pattern mix and stacked shoes. Come to think of it, I'll also take the hair.

Mandy Coon

Stark and severe but I love the proportions and am now officially hooked on the long full skirt and dare I say, this Fall RTW showing has quite possibly triggered a desire in me for leather. But then I love a strong, dark, powerful female. Tres chic!

Libertine

Ah, Libertine! There you are! I was starting to worry...it's been awhile since last we talked.

So it turns out that Libertine didn't disappear, they were just maybe in cocoon mode waiting for this fresh energy to turn out this totally color 'wow' collection. I love the symbiosis of 60's inspired shapes with this veritable mixture of matrix prints. I am especially coveting the coat on the far right.

Kimberly Ovitz

On the one hand, she's a young designer who is still finding her legs. On the other hand, she's got that yellow and black dress pretty much down to a laser-cut science. I like the first look because, well, it's moody (keep your comments to yourself). And although I don't fully understand the straight-jacket-come-sweater on the far right (nor the strange pants lurking underneath), I like it. It makes me want a rainy day and a cup of hot tea.

Jeremy Blaing

I'm a sucker for draping. When I was in fashion design school, it was absolutely my favorite class outside of history of costume. These pieces are beautifully and magically draped. The middle is practically an Erte come to life and that coat is just divine.

G-Star

I'll admit I have never been aboard the G-Star parade float. The line has always been so over the top that I couldn't bear to even make it through the whole show. But I like this collection -- it feels a bit more grown-up, a hair more chic and definitely better edited.

Again with the leather -- I may be developing a habit.

doo.ri

Wasn't my favorite doo.ri collection to date but I am a sucker for this shade of blue and black together. The draping, too...amazing. Of course she's known for that. I also love the boots.

Costello Tagliapietra


The collection was inspired by the '70's and the '90's. What caught my eye most was definitely the color and the flow of the dresses! Gorgeous and romantic, I want every one -- especially the green. What an amazing dress and what a unique shade. And what is this I see? Bare legs -- may be the first I've seen out of any of the fall collections. It's so what I'm used to having given up most legwear ages ago; now, of course, I find myself in Givenchy hosiery almost daily if there is a skirt or dress involved.

Altuzarra

Also inspired by the '90's, specifically grunge and Kate Moss' penchant for wearing tiny-argyle-nothings under huge parkas during that decade, Altuzarra managed to nail the look without going too nostalgic. It's just simply sexy and I dig that.

Adam
Amazing collection considering that designer Adam Lippes lost almost his entire collection weeks before the show to a fire; he was able to salvage his show, quite brilliantly, with the help of -- get this -- a nearby knitting circle. What a story to tell. The show itself told a story of Native American infused indigenous-looking knits, dresses, and separates to much aplomb.

Alexander Wang

It's a good thing I overindulged on coffee this morning because getting to the end of this takes a lot of energy! So much to think about, so much to write! If you've made it this far, I thank you. Alexander Wang delivered to me what I was so dearly missing from Rag and Bone this year -- some downtown powergirl chic. I adore the skinny pant in pink -- and, no, I can't believe those words came out of my mouth either but paired with the heavy black, they look tough. They are also available in blue! Fabulous.

Ok, my pets, more to come!

xoxo,
kvlm

Day Oneish of NY Fashion Week

So yesterday's post was Part 1 of Fashion Week but the runway didn't really start until yesterday. Behold...

Wes Gordon

I am completely in love with Wes Gordon. What a magnificent and romantic collection. And the setting really lent itself to the all over feel of his aesthetic. It was a little Garbo-Hepburnesque but at the same time, made me pine for Dorothy Parker and the Algonquin Roundtable. J'adore!

Wayne

Wayne is probably better known for the leather she put down this fall's runway but I fell for the draping in looks one and two and the urban appeal of the third look. All of it very powerful.

Tess Giberson

No, I don't typically like fur and I'll take faux over real any day of the week, but these were definitely my favorite of Giberson's looks -- well really I think it was the onset of my rekindled love for outerwear. Oh how I love fall...

Christian Siriano

We all know I love Christian Siriano -- his personality, his design skills, etc. But I'm unsure on this one. The looks above won me -- they are quintessential Siriano, though maybe edited more so than in collections past. The pink and gray is absolutely stunning and the middle look, well....something about it reminds me a little of McQueen which is always appreciated (though maybe it's because McQueen is on my mind given it's the year anniversary of his passing).

But this....this I'm not sure of. The first look just does not look like him at all -- and maybe it's because he hired a stylist to help tone down his sometimes overindulgent take on fashion. But that's what we all love about him; he's over the top but it works -- obviously, he's the only Project Runway winner that has just about become a household name.

I like the second look in this line up but when I saw it, I didn't think Siriano -- I thought maybe that model got lost coming over from Calvin Klein...probably she is delirious from food deprivation. And while I do like the way the third dress floats, there is something about it that still is off his mark.

Please, New York, don't ruin Siriano by shoving him into your box. Let creativity be.

Ruffian

Fun. Black. Party frocks. Sexy and playful. You really can't go wrong there.

Richard Chai Love

Again with my addiction to outwear. I love how chic and clean these first two looks are and, obviously, I love the pants. They are pants right?

Rebecca Taylor

Heaven, heaven, heaven. All of it, right down to the legwear! Sign me up!! It's a little '40's inspired and that is always, always ok in my book.

Rebecca Minkoff

Very powerful and sexy. I love the leather jacket with the long flowing skirt, another trend that is happening on a lot of runways. Lower your hems, girls. It just says New York to me, in that good let's go down to the Village and have a coffee then roam every fashion venue for an entire day way. I could really use one of those.

Rag and Bone

Tres disappointed with this collection. I am such a huge Rag and Bone fan and I always look for them to bring me my much needed dosage of downtown-badass-fempower looks. And this...well, this just isn't it. Honestly, when I look at this trio of representations, I see Scotland. Normally, that would thrill me given my affinity for the country. However, it's not the country I see, it's the flags. It's the yellow and red lion mixed with St. Andrews cross compiled into legwear that looks worthy of a ski lift and dresses that are worthy of, well, kilts? Or better yet, lining up for William Wallace's battle. Just give me a can of blue war paint.

The whole collection smacked of those two pages in my childhood encyclopedia that covered all of the major flags of the European nations. I am all about finding inspiration in vague places but this...this is a bit much.

Rachel Comey

Also feels a bit '40's to me. I love the outerwear, the deconstructed coat on the left is unexpected with that floral skirt but it works beautifully. I love the combination of rust colors in the second look that make it seem almost vintage and the mutton sleeves on the third coat make me swoon.

Peter Som



Peter Som's tailoring is in a word glorious. I love how streamlined his collections are but they also don't lack curves -- a harmonious balance. Romantic without being over the top, nostalgic without being too specific which makes him quite the contemporary.

Luca Luca

Lady-like and quaint, I really love the color palette. And the shoes.

Jenny Kayne

Jenny Kayne's line also strikes a balance -- of minimalism without the sacrifice of sex appeal. So often, minimalist looks wind up straddling that fine line between clean/simple and complete androgyny. I am, even though I tend to go for the glam or the dark, attracted to minimalist looks but often get turned off by how clinical they are -- and how un-womanly. These pieces capture all of that and I simply love the color-drenched separates.

Jason Wu



There aren't enough words -- clearly my favorite collection so far, Jason Wu shines once again. The world should write him a love letter. It was a clear cut of sexy androgynous looks mixed with total feminism. Very sexy indeed, right down to the show's production.

How did we ever live without Jason Wu before? Every woman should own at least one of his dresses -- they are truly awe-inspiring. Just ask Mrs. Obama.

More later -- so much more. New York never sleeps, you know, especially when there is fashion to be had.

xoxo,
kvlm