and Raquel Zimmerman...
26 August 2010
07 July 2010
Tourture
A first on FPS: I'm about to rip on a show. I kind of have a golden rule about ripping on a designer's show (karma, respect, etc.) and try hard though I may to keep my (sometimes negative) thoughts to myself, I can't hold it in on this one any longer. I hated the Valentino show. Ok, maybe I am partial to the genius of the "ancient regime" (though I don't really consider it so ancient) but I have tried for several collections now to like what Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri put out and it's just not happening.
This collection is reported to be marketed to the Twilight set (really? Valentino? really? Twilight? Did the earth just spin off its axis?) and a spin on the dark side of first love. Well I can tell you my feelings are dark, I do not love it and I can be silent no more.
We'll hit a few I did like first (there were maybe six total):
I like the these first two looks because they incorporate classic Valentino elements with a fashion forward design. The third one is a romantic spin on being trapped, obviously a throwback to the dark side of first love. It looks ready for a museum show and that I like. Well, honestly, it looks like a dress form from the 1800's and that I can get behind.
Ok, so much I hate about this. 1) the fit. Maybe the models came back from a weekend bender and no longer fit the clothes. 2) the cut...ok, yes, classic couture lines, blah blah blah but I'm pretty sure I saw look 2 at my high school prom or, in the very least, at Talbots. 3) look 3 looks like the mini-dress-hooker-version of Nanny McPhee's ensemble before she turned into the beautiful Emma Thompson. But then they kind of all 3 look like sad dolls dressed by an evil, homicidal sociopath of a child in need of meds.
I think the first one was probably a lot more interesting on paper than it is in real life. It looks like she got attacked in the floral department at the grocery. Or had some kind of collision with the model in look 3 (maybe that is, in fact, the bird that once was flitting about in model 3's cage). The 2nd looks like coffee filters gone wrong, or, for a history of costume reference, ruff's gone wild. There just aren't enough words for look 3. There are a dozen other designers I could name that this would not surprise me to see come down their runway but Valentino is usually not known for the avant garde. So park it.
Ok...look 1 here looks like it came straight out of a design school workshop. Le snooze. But looks 2 and 3 are just killing me with their overeager youthfulness which really just looks like a cutesy version of a mourning frock and the cabaret version of a vicar's dress (picture if you will a vicar doing "Big Spender" during a G-d fearing Sunday sermon). What of these things don't go together? Ahem.
Does the dark side of first love also come with no concept of reason, proportion, style or sex appeal? Because I remember my first love and it was more like rainbows and puppy dogs, not some back room of an abbey role play. Actually, no, my first love revolved around depressing poetry and song lyrics (thank you, Robert Smith) but still...I never resembled a puritan, vicar, or recently exhumed historical figure.
Again with the vicar. I can't control it, it's just what it reminds me of..."careful there, Vicar..." Oy. The 2nd look is one part hefty, one part jiffy pop. Or maybe more than one party jiffy because is it just me or does that small yellow-ish detail look exactly like popcorn? And then that bodice, which was repetitive (redundant?) on this runway that was obviously made for the breasts of a pre-teen and fashioned out of bandage from a first aid kit. Did someone have an incident over a jiffy pop and movie night and find inspiration? Methinks so. The 3rd look almost had me, and would have sustained me, if it weren't for that unsightly pink bow that is terribly off center. She's more like the ghost of first love -- roaming the halls of some decaying mansion waiting for any man to enter so she can choke him to death with that little pink bow screaming the name "Valentino" all the while.
Too harsh?
Sigh. It's so very sad to feel this way about a line no longer designed by its inventor whom I completely adore. No one wants to dislike the next generation but I can't seem to help myself feel completely unsatisfied by the offerings of these two. I find that the accessories (the shoes, the gloves) tend to catch my favored attention more so than anything else they design -- mais oui! They were the accessories designers before be given this post after Monsieur Valentino's retirement! And it shows. And I sleep. And I wait for someone to take their place who will honor the name that is Valentino. Because this? This ain't doin' it.
xoxo,
kvlm
This collection is reported to be marketed to the Twilight set (really? Valentino? really? Twilight? Did the earth just spin off its axis?) and a spin on the dark side of first love. Well I can tell you my feelings are dark, I do not love it and I can be silent no more.
We'll hit a few I did like first (there were maybe six total):
I like the these first two looks because they incorporate classic Valentino elements with a fashion forward design. The third one is a romantic spin on being trapped, obviously a throwback to the dark side of first love. It looks ready for a museum show and that I like. Well, honestly, it looks like a dress form from the 1800's and that I can get behind.
Ok, so much I hate about this. 1) the fit. Maybe the models came back from a weekend bender and no longer fit the clothes. 2) the cut...ok, yes, classic couture lines, blah blah blah but I'm pretty sure I saw look 2 at my high school prom or, in the very least, at Talbots. 3) look 3 looks like the mini-dress-hooker-version of Nanny McPhee's ensemble before she turned into the beautiful Emma Thompson. But then they kind of all 3 look like sad dolls dressed by an evil, homicidal sociopath of a child in need of meds.
I think the first one was probably a lot more interesting on paper than it is in real life. It looks like she got attacked in the floral department at the grocery. Or had some kind of collision with the model in look 3 (maybe that is, in fact, the bird that once was flitting about in model 3's cage). The 2nd looks like coffee filters gone wrong, or, for a history of costume reference, ruff's gone wild. There just aren't enough words for look 3. There are a dozen other designers I could name that this would not surprise me to see come down their runway but Valentino is usually not known for the avant garde. So park it.
Ok...look 1 here looks like it came straight out of a design school workshop. Le snooze. But looks 2 and 3 are just killing me with their overeager youthfulness which really just looks like a cutesy version of a mourning frock and the cabaret version of a vicar's dress (picture if you will a vicar doing "Big Spender" during a G-d fearing Sunday sermon). What of these things don't go together? Ahem.Does the dark side of first love also come with no concept of reason, proportion, style or sex appeal? Because I remember my first love and it was more like rainbows and puppy dogs, not some back room of an abbey role play. Actually, no, my first love revolved around depressing poetry and song lyrics (thank you, Robert Smith) but still...I never resembled a puritan, vicar, or recently exhumed historical figure.
Again with the vicar. I can't control it, it's just what it reminds me of..."careful there, Vicar..." Oy. The 2nd look is one part hefty, one part jiffy pop. Or maybe more than one party jiffy because is it just me or does that small yellow-ish detail look exactly like popcorn? And then that bodice, which was repetitive (redundant?) on this runway that was obviously made for the breasts of a pre-teen and fashioned out of bandage from a first aid kit. Did someone have an incident over a jiffy pop and movie night and find inspiration? Methinks so. The 3rd look almost had me, and would have sustained me, if it weren't for that unsightly pink bow that is terribly off center. She's more like the ghost of first love -- roaming the halls of some decaying mansion waiting for any man to enter so she can choke him to death with that little pink bow screaming the name "Valentino" all the while.
Too harsh?
Sigh. It's so very sad to feel this way about a line no longer designed by its inventor whom I completely adore. No one wants to dislike the next generation but I can't seem to help myself feel completely unsatisfied by the offerings of these two. I find that the accessories (the shoes, the gloves) tend to catch my favored attention more so than anything else they design -- mais oui! They were the accessories designers before be given this post after Monsieur Valentino's retirement! And it shows. And I sleep. And I wait for someone to take their place who will honor the name that is Valentino. Because this? This ain't doin' it.
xoxo,
kvlm
05 July 2010
Earth Laughs in Flowers
To quote a bit of Emerson for your Monday evening pleasure. Though not to be overly sentimental, but I'm feeling more poetic about fashion today than usual following my first tour through The Frist Center for the Visual Art's Golden Age of Couture exhibit (accompanied by the more prominent stream of Emerson's words in my life following the arrival of my goddaughter Emerson). To top it all off, the couture shows have started in Paris and if I give myself reason enough (which honestly doesn't take much), I get all dreamy and moon-eyed at the very thought of couture.
Ok, let's be honest -- I almost cried, I think I squealed and I came very close to begging for more time at the exhibit on Saturday. For those of you who know the trail of fashion history, specifically couture, you know the very real role that the "New Look" played in setting off a spiral of creativity, evolution and overall economic impact of the fashion industry on the rest of the world. It is simply legendary. And to this we all owe Christian Dior a massive debt of gratitude. He will always be my favorite designer, favorite house, favorite everything. To stand in front of the Bar suit, nothing separating me from it but museum grade plexiglass, will turn into one of those redefining moments in my life. It's no different than the first time I stood in front of a Pollock at the Phillip's Collection or when I finally got to see The Arnolfini Marriage by van Eyck at the National Gallery in London or even walking through the sculpture garden at the Louvre or the endless hours I stood in the Pre-Raphaelite wing of The Tate. It was breathtaking, moving and invigorating. I stood still, trying to memorize every seam line -- finally giving up because somewhere you know such perfection can never be reinterpreted let alone replicated. Dior, you are my hero.
And so the reigning King Supreme of Couture, John Galliano, showed his Dior Fall Couture Collection in Paris today and it was if the whole world had suddenly come alive with Dior on its breath like the wind in the night. Obviously inspired by flowers, Galliano as usual took his vision to a completely untouchable and ethereal level. Theatrics not withstanding, the skill it takes to bring a simple flower to life, the eye for detail (right down to the florist-wrap headpieces) is not at all unlike art. For anyone who has ever thought there is no art in fashion, I dare them to argue that when it comes to the House of Dior...now or then.
Time to stop and smell the flowers.
xoxo,
kvlm
photos style.com
Ok, let's be honest -- I almost cried, I think I squealed and I came very close to begging for more time at the exhibit on Saturday. For those of you who know the trail of fashion history, specifically couture, you know the very real role that the "New Look" played in setting off a spiral of creativity, evolution and overall economic impact of the fashion industry on the rest of the world. It is simply legendary. And to this we all owe Christian Dior a massive debt of gratitude. He will always be my favorite designer, favorite house, favorite everything. To stand in front of the Bar suit, nothing separating me from it but museum grade plexiglass, will turn into one of those redefining moments in my life. It's no different than the first time I stood in front of a Pollock at the Phillip's Collection or when I finally got to see The Arnolfini Marriage by van Eyck at the National Gallery in London or even walking through the sculpture garden at the Louvre or the endless hours I stood in the Pre-Raphaelite wing of The Tate. It was breathtaking, moving and invigorating. I stood still, trying to memorize every seam line -- finally giving up because somewhere you know such perfection can never be reinterpreted let alone replicated. Dior, you are my hero.
And so the reigning King Supreme of Couture, John Galliano, showed his Dior Fall Couture Collection in Paris today and it was if the whole world had suddenly come alive with Dior on its breath like the wind in the night. Obviously inspired by flowers, Galliano as usual took his vision to a completely untouchable and ethereal level. Theatrics not withstanding, the skill it takes to bring a simple flower to life, the eye for detail (right down to the florist-wrap headpieces) is not at all unlike art. For anyone who has ever thought there is no art in fashion, I dare them to argue that when it comes to the House of Dior...now or then.
Time to stop and smell the flowers.
xoxo,
kvlm
photos style.com
29 June 2010
O. M. M.
That's short for Oh My Marc! If there was any doubt in anyone's mind (though I don't know how that is remotely possible) that Marc Jacobs is not an absolute master of his craft, then the Louis Vuitton F/W 2010 ad campaign will put that straight to rest.
This one ad campaign essentially captures absolutely every detail I love about fashion PLUS (girl crush) the exquisite Karen Elson, Christy Turlington, and Natalia Vodianova shot by Steven Meisel...well they rock it like no one else could.
Behold...
And people wonder why I call him "My Heaven Known as Marc Jacobs..."
This one ad campaign essentially captures absolutely every detail I love about fashion PLUS (girl crush) the exquisite Karen Elson, Christy Turlington, and Natalia Vodianova shot by Steven Meisel...well they rock it like no one else could.
Behold...
And people wonder why I call him "My Heaven Known as Marc Jacobs..."
26 June 2010
20 June 2010
Final Resort 2011 Review
Remember when I said that Marc Jacob's Resort 2011 Collection was my favorite? Well, I might be torn...ever so slightly. Stella McCartney is a close second if not a definitive tie. Her collection was a breathtaking, beautiful, tailored mixture of patisserie colors, garden motifs, and sugary confections. Every piece so slim and exact, leaving no room for a pouf or anything frou-frou...mind you, I usually love the frou-frou but there is something so clean about her design that it's quite seducing.
My other tops from this final round of review are Yves Saint Laurent (love the colors), Zac Posen (which showed like a fairy tale dream),Rag + Bone (who I want to wear every day) and Versace (the color palette and shoes at Versace were wearing me out!). I also loved Reem Acra because, well, I'm female and I love the dreaminess of an evening gown, but also because it felt like a Pre-Raphaelite painting, an Egyptian goddess, a Maxfield Parrish and a Roman Empress come to life. So basically full on romanticism.
I also really loved Preen, Proenza Schouler and Rachel Roy. But then I had affection for all of these for very different reasons...
Click on images to enlarge
Stella McCartney
Zac Posen
Versace
Oh, the shoes...!!!
Vera Wang
A different twist on the shape of that pant
Vena Cava
Tory Burch
The aesthetic of TB is usually not my own,
but I like the Indian inspiration and layering!
The Row
I'm still adjusting to the Olsen's minimalist design approach
Thakoon
Described as "a Parisian in Africa"
Suno
The jumpsuit is here to stay (at least for awhile)
I like the playful take on Suno's
Sonia Rykiel
French nostalgia. Does it get any better?
Richard Nicoll
Richard Chai Love
Reem Acra
Rag + Bone
The boots, the colors, the cuts...want
Want it bad
Rachel Roy
Adore, adore, adore
The orange trouser is divine!
Proenza Schouler
This entire collection was exquisitely done
Preen
Peter Jensen
A Peter Jensen show is like watching a kids book come to life
Look past the distraction and the pieces are impeccable
That's it until fall as far as collections go! And given this humidity, I'll take fall tomorrow, please, with a pumpkin on top.
xoxo,
kvlm
images style.com
My other tops from this final round of review are Yves Saint Laurent (love the colors), Zac Posen (which showed like a fairy tale dream),Rag + Bone (who I want to wear every day) and Versace (the color palette and shoes at Versace were wearing me out!). I also loved Reem Acra because, well, I'm female and I love the dreaminess of an evening gown, but also because it felt like a Pre-Raphaelite painting, an Egyptian goddess, a Maxfield Parrish and a Roman Empress come to life. So basically full on romanticism.
I also really loved Preen, Proenza Schouler and Rachel Roy. But then I had affection for all of these for very different reasons...
Click on images to enlarge
Stella McCartney
Stella McCartney
Zac Posen
Yves Saint Laurent
Yigal Azrouel
The shape of this pant is oh so very popular
The shape of this pant is oh so very popular
Versace
Oh, the shoes...!!!
Vera Wang
A different twist on the shape of that pant
Vena Cava
Tory Burch
The aesthetic of TB is usually not my own,
but I like the Indian inspiration and layering!
The Row
I'm still adjusting to the Olsen's minimalist design approach
Thakoon
Described as "a Parisian in Africa"
Suno
The jumpsuit is here to stay (at least for awhile)
I like the playful take on Suno's
Sonia Rykiel
French nostalgia. Does it get any better?
Roksanda Ilincic
Modern draping with vintage detail
Tres chic!
Modern draping with vintage detail
Tres chic!
Richard Nicoll
Richard Chai Love
Reem Acra
Reed Krakoff
If I'm going to wear leather,
I'll take it buttery please
If I'm going to wear leather,
I'll take it buttery please
Rag + Bone
The boots, the colors, the cuts...want
Want it bad
Rachel Roy
Adore, adore, adore
The orange trouser is divine!
Proenza Schouler
This entire collection was exquisitely done
Preen
Ports 1961
Loving the fall on the blue sheath
Loving the fall on the blue sheath
Peter Jensen
A Peter Jensen show is like watching a kids book come to life
Look past the distraction and the pieces are impeccable
That's it until fall as far as collections go! And given this humidity, I'll take fall tomorrow, please, with a pumpkin on top.
xoxo,
kvlm
images style.com
19 June 2010
Resort 2011, Round 2
Click on images for larger view
Oscar de la Renta
I think he covered about every era of dress I swoon for in these 4 frocks.
Nina Ricci
Gorgeous gets its on place.
Nina Ricci
Naeem Khan
Michael Angel
Max Azria
Marc by Marc Jacobs
Malandrino
Michael Kors
I am such a sucker for ombre, esp. in these colors
Juan Carlos Obando
Isaac Mizrahi
Barbara Tfank
Final round tomorrow, my pets!
xoxo,
kvlm
images style.com
Marc Jacobs
Marc Jacobs
My absolute favorite collection from Resort 2011. I know, quel shock.
My absolute favorite collection from Resort 2011. I know, quel shock.
Elie Tahari
Oscar de la Renta
I think he covered about every era of dress I swoon for in these 4 frocks.
Nina Ricci
Gorgeous gets its on place.
Nina Ricci
Naeem Khan
Michael Angel
Max Azria
Marc by Marc Jacobs
Malandrino
Monique Lhuillier
Louis Vuitton
Lanvin
Triple swoon...
Triple swoon...
Michael Kors
I am such a sucker for ombre, esp. in these colors
Juan Carlos Obando
Jonathan Saunders
I would like all 3, yes, please.
I would like all 3, yes, please.
Isaac Mizrahi
Haider Ackermann
Um, Gucci?
Erdem
I heart you, Erdem, to infinity and beyond.
I heart you, Erdem, to infinity and beyond.
Barbara Tfank
Final round tomorrow, my pets!
xoxo,
kvlm
images style.com
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)