Couture Confection's 2009

Ah...couture. It's like a fantasty trip into another dimension where I can only look through a very thick plate glass window while cradling some hope that, beyond these brillant artistic creations trickling down into ready-to-wear, I can maybe pick up a piece or two of inspiration here and replicate it in some fashion, however small. Couture is the high-art of fashion and some pieces look as if they belong more in the Louvre than they do on the street; in fact, they do.

To some, couture may seem an unnecessary venture at present, given the economic state of, well, the entire world. But to me, to many, couture stands on a vital pivot of optimism, light, and determination. In many ways, it's the fashion world's battle cry that says, this too shall go on! It's crucial to the history book being written as each House takes a gasp or two of air, going back under until the whole downturn blows over and praying that it does.

I try really hard, after the shows are over, to do two things. 1) Don't read what other people write about them. I want my opinion to be as unbiased as possible, even though my opinion, in the grand scheme of the fashion universe, doesn't really amount to a hill of glass beads. 2) Choose a handfull of defining photographs that capture the spirit of each show. Both are virtually impossible to do. 1) Everyone writes on the shows, I get 15 emails a day with updates, highlights, etc. etc. I have just have to turn a blind eye...oh but it's so hard! 2) Yeah. No. That's like trying to "chose your favorite star."

Alexis Mabille is a newcomer to the couture scene, somewhat evident by his collection, but it still is a refreshing swirl of colors and fantastic fabrics. I don't know that is exactly what I'm looking for in a couture show, although you can see the potential all the while imagining where he'll be in 10 years, so I'm not including images. I like to save space for those ones that make me swoony.

Giorgio Armani's Armani Prive smacked of Katherine Hepburn shaped suits mixed with a bit of shimmer, a monochromatic palette, and lush velvet; 1940's reinvented. The suit was dominant, with tight pagoda shoulders and straight legs. I always love Armani's gowns; I particularly loved these two:




I am not really sure how I feel about Karl Lagerfeld right now other than the fact that I think he needs to put food in his mouth instead of constantly insulting people. In the past few months he has successfully insulted Heidi Klum and Audrey Tatou. I'm sure Klum let it role off her perfect backside that he said she's fat (in which case he would probably compare me to some sort of sea creature such as the manatee), what, two times? But Audrey Tatou is the new official spokesmodel of Chanel AND she's playing Coco in the soon-to-come biopic so I think that one is slightly more unforgiveable. As for his collection, well, Karl can do whatever the fuck Karl wants to do, and I only say it that particular way because that's what he would say, yeah? I wasn't a fan of most of it; his muted palette's reminded me of the Depression and I think that's exactly what couterer's don't want people thinking about. In my humble opinion, I think it lacked editing but what do I know? I did, however, adore all of these:






When I dream about fashion heaven, which is at least a few nights a week, my very first thought is always, always Christian Dior. Now, then, forever, Christian Dior. John Galliano, I adore you...you are in my top ten list of people who would probably make me completley stupid if ever I were lucky enough to have a peeptoe pump in your magical presence (and for that, he is the only designer I would ever include the final shot from a show of...well and I love the two ensembles flanking him...but look at him! the man is magnifique!) I love this show on so many many levels, and not just because I am a) completely bias here and b) a bit of a vintage whore, but also, think of it this way: he took a return to Dior basics...the structure, the colors, the New Look glam of it all, which, I think, in this repressed economy, was a fantastic idea. It says, hey, remember why you come to this House...well, in case you don't, let me remind you. And suddenly you are sucked into a colorful, sexy and classic Dior slice of heaven. (There we go with that heaven again...)







It was said that Lacroix was literally pulling fabrics and trims from every corner and from every friend he could think of to pull this show of as the House of Lacroix seems to be breathing it's last breath (let's all pray that's not true). I think the collection was beautifully edited, pulled together, had a few of the classic over-the-top touches Lacroix is known for, while erring on the almost practical. If this is his last collection (for now, anyway), it was well done and refined. I thoroughly believe the black and white graphic below will find it's way into many an "inspired" ready-to-wear garment by year's end.





It's easy to see why Lebanese designer Elie Saab is such an Oscar favorite...his work is the pinnacle of what every girl imagines herself walking down the red carpet in. It's almost Peaches-n-Cream Barbie Doll perfection and I don't mean that in a bad way. Of all of my flocks and flocks of Barbie clothes, that is the one dress I remember vividly (dork flag, flying high). It was a little odd that Saab chose to put on an all white show shortly after Lagerfeld did the same thing. And some of the detail is undeniably similar to Michelle Obama's Jason Wu she wore for her first dance as First Lady. I didn't see Saab here in a lot of ways...his structure was off, and no color? I mean really, no color? He's kind of known for his crayola box of monotone dresses. Some of these felt like they just simply belonged to someone else. These I liked, but never was there full on in love. Unfortunate.





I'm not sure about Riccardo Tisci's collection for Givenchy either...I am absolutely on the fence about it. It certainly had depth and intrigue. I was immediatley attracted to the mysterious vibe that floated around each girl, the Indian influnece, the henna, the sarouel-effect he used quite well without being over done, I adore the velvet (there are two kinds of girls: velvet girls and leather girls, I am DEFINITELY a velvet girl), and this piece below I just fell for. But the pants really threw me off. The jodphur inspired trousers ranged from slightly more ballooned than the classic to rivaling those of MC Hammer. I'm not sure that's a look I'm ready for. Those and harem pants...no thanks, man. But this...this color, this silhoette, this drama...this is the kind of thing a girl would take another girl out over. Seriously. Can you imagine? Literally makes me palpitate. This may have my award for best couture piece of the season (you know, because I give those out and people care. Yeah, not).



There's a reason Madonna goes to John Paul Gaultier. That mix of the Marlene Dietrich attempt at titillating androgyny blended with blatant sex appeal spun on an edge...HOT. Dear G-d, so HOT. I love the pieces below...so classic Hollywood masterfully stirred in 2009. If I could have a closet full of suits in this vain, I would probably sell all my furniture, vintage bags, and any piece of designer clothing I have (well, excluding my Marc) to do it. Perfection.





Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri over at Valentino were alive in black. And to be more specific, quite skilled in creating a swarm of night bird's. Every girl's dress seemed some sort of magical symbiosis that was at once both over done lace and tulle while being completely organic. I loved the shoes, but the shoes often caught my attention more than the dresses. It's not that I didn't love the collection, I mean come on, it's Valentino, but I think this may be one of those collections you have to see in person to fully appreciate. It just felt like there was something missing. Like it was couture "light." Now I wonder how long it will be before I'm struck down my lightening for criticizing thy name, Valentino.





xoxo, kvlm

A Blog Longer than any Mickey Rourke Speech Could Have Ever Been...

Ah, Oscar night. There are a million reasons I sit down at 6:00 and stick it out til the bitter end of the Oscars (which was nearly midnight last night), most of them being the dresses. But last night's Oscar performance really was a departure from anything I've seen since I started watching it at the tender age of 4. It was a SHOW. Not just a snooze fest of long drawn out speeches and thank you's; it was David O. Selznick's Hollywood, it was the Coconut Club, it was pretty damn cool. Hugh Jackman was wonderful, the set was gorgeous and I loved the overall way it was shot. I commend you, Academy, even if I don't always agree with you.

Now about those dresses...I have to start with my absolute favorite. Penelope Cruz definitely won for best dressed last night in a 60 year old Pierre Balmain. She was exquisite; of course I'm a sucker for vintage couture but especially a sucker for someone who wears it as beautifully and non-pretentiously as Penelope (take a cue, SJP). I'm so thrilled she won for best supporting actress; I just think she is a doll.

Let's talk about Amy Adams. I love Amy Adams in ways I can't even explain. Miss Pettigrew Lives for a Day should have been nominated and I'm still kind of pissed that it wasn't, if not just for costume design. Wth? Anyway, I'm not sure how I feel about Amy's Herrera. It's kind of like a Jello Mold...interesting to look at but you could kind of take it or leave it for taste sake. Ok, weird analogy but you get me.


A quick line on Jessica Biel because that's really all I have for her. Interesting Prada choice; I realize a lot of critics weren't crazy about it but I think it's...interesting. (Which is kind of like fine, but more...substantial?) I'm just glad she finally looks like a girl and not some anime action figure waiting to kick my ass.

Marion Cotillard can do no wrong fashion-wise in my book. This Dior is heaven.

Viola Davis. Radiant. Glowing. Flawless in Reem Acra. Loved her.


I'm not even really sure who Melissa George is or why she was at the Oscars but she needs to fire her stylist. Like yesterday. She looks like a ballerina shoved into a sausage skin. Just sayin'.

Taraji P. Henson is adorable. Wow, is she super cute and super bubbly. And her dress? Super hot. Roberto Cavalli.

I know I should only pick on people my own size and really shouldn't give a Disney kid any sort of flack but in the name of Hepburn (Audrey and Kate), I'm gonna have to say this to get it out of my system. This is Vanessa Hudgwhateverhernameis. My nieces, I'm sure, love her. I don't know much about her; she's probably a lovely person. But unfortunately she has just bought herself a one way ticket to the island I created for Jennifer Love Hewitt. I GET (trust me, I get) the Hepburn obsession. Love her, or them for that matter, from a distance. Don't copy them verbatim and please please don't compare yourselves to them in public. No one will ever be Audrey or Katherine again. It's just not going to happen. So Vanessa Hudgenfrock said she chose this Marchesa because it reminded her of a young Audrey Hepburn. This is funny on two levels to me because other than the cut of the lower half which mildly resembles Audrey's Givenchy in Sabrina, this dress doesn't look anything like her. It's more Paula Abdul in my book. The other thing is exactly how does one say a "young Audrey Hepburn" when they are like a) 12 and b) unaware that the Audrey was in fact "young" until the day she died. Ugh. Ok, over protective and territorial...coming down off ledge...ggrrr...disney kids....ggrrrr.

Angelina in Elie Saab. Not sure I really dig the dress but it was a perfect fit for the gems because you could see those suckers about a mile away. They must have been special Chernobyl emeralds or something, my girl was aglow.

Heidi Klum can pretty much wear whatever the hell she wants. She's Heidi Klum. And she's married to Seal. Talk about a perfect couple. But what in the name of Tim Gunn was she wearing last night? I mean seriously, gather round. I'm intrigued. And not in a good way. I understand it's Roland Mouret but I'd have worn a Kenley "original" before I'd worn this. The color is bad, the jewelry is bad, the hair is bad, the shoes are reeallll bad. Of course she's still hot even looking bad but Heidi, this is a lot of look. Edit, sister, Edit.


Thank you, dear heavenly gods Dolce and Gabbana for FINALLY putting Diane Lane in a dress that is as sexy as she is. Ever since The Outsiders (ok, I just totally dated myself) I have thought Diane Lane was one of the most ridiculously sexy women in Hollywood but usually her fashion choices leave me longing for a bit of Cherry. She finally nailed it. Hoorah.

You know, I never even saw Virginia Madsen in last night's telecast and that's just a shame because WOW does she look incredible..total honorable mention for her in this Kevan Hall number. She is stunning.

When they fall, they fall hard. Not to say that SJP's dress isn't EXQUISITE, I mean, hello, it's Dior Haute Couture (as she told us on her way into the Kodak Theatre roughly 500 times), but the overall affect? Yuck. I just picked up this month's Bazaar with SJP on the cover; I've been a fan for awhile though I have to say I think her style icon-ism really is at the hands of Patricia Fields (did ya see Square Pegs?). In the issue, SJP depicts Dianna Vreeland in several rather disturbingly Dianna perfect portraits. I love that she did that; Dianna Vreeland was an amazing woman and dare I say we need to "witness" these tales of the Dianna's and the Carmel's so that future generations understand the role they played in fashion as we go down the runway of life. However, rolling the Vreeland look out into public mixed with a typically Sarah ballet dress? Yeah, not so much. And I mean, seriously, I know there are people in the world who don't pronounce haute couture correctly but repeating it over and over only served to make you seem oh so uber pretentious and I'd really like to not think of you that way. So, next time, tone it down a notch; and turn the blond back on in your hair. That color with "barely mint" is barely tolerable.

Frieda Pinto is smashing in this blue John Galliano. All the critics have raved and raved about it. I'd like to note that I think she is the only person on Earth who could have pulled this off though. That color on her skin mixed with her effortless grace and beauty are a perfect match.

I have admired Meryl Streep for years; decades even. Not only is she one of the greatest actresses of all time, I also think she is a great beauty. When I rented Mamma Mia, I won't lie, I was scared. By the end of it, I was not only disappointed that it was over but I found myself repeatedly thinking, damn I hope I look like that when I'm that age. Mamma was smokin'. So you'd think a putty colored Alberta Ferreti gown would be the last thing on earth you'd see her in after such an amazing year. Think again.

I joke that Tilda Swinton is really a droid but the truth is, I'm wildly curious about her. She's kind of gorgeous in a very almost Taltos kind of way isn't she? And her style?? Totally avant garde and envelope pushing. Yeah, I love her. And she's in Lanvin. I love her even more.

Another of my favorites: Marisa Tomei in Versace. There's just something about Marisa Tomei that all guys love and most girls envy. Fantastic dress choice.

When Kate Winslet first stepped out onto the red carpet, my immediate reaction was, Dear G-d, she looks just like Grace Kelly. And she did. She's so classy; so demure; and I admire her greatly. She absolutely deserved her Best Actress win last night; it's been a long time coming. On the flip side of that, however, (please, G-d, forgive me for what I'm about to say) after looking at the dress and hair from every conceivable angle, I just cannot say...I love it? Ok, yes, I love the dress. In its cut, design, the fact that it is Yves Saint Laurent. The color is heaven. But it's just too...dowager? A bit old for her, I think that's my issue. You see I just think she is so divine and I'd like to see her in something that is neither of these three things: blue, black or slate gray. I think she'd be smashing in pink or yellow even. Call me, Kate, we'll go shop.

And speaking of those who dress a little too beyond their age range. I go back and forth with Anne Hathaway. I mean, I love the clothes, from a fashion-addict perspective. She has phenomenal taste. BUT just because you love something does not (does not does not) mean you should wear it (a lesson I wish I'd learned about ten years earlier, thank you chiffon 3/4 length jacket over leggings with clogs!) Anyfrock, I love this Armani Prive dress but I just want to see her in something more fun; something that says, yes I kick ass. Not just, yes, look at me, I'm a serious actress above the Hollywood hype. We know you are serious, you are a brillant actress. Just loosen up. Personally, I liked the dress she wore to dance with Jackman far better than this very stately and severe frock.

Reese Witherspoon wasn't the only one to don Rodarte last night (Natalie Portman's bubble gum pink was also a Rodarte) and honestly I didn't really like either of them. This blue and black number doesn't do anything for her at all. Not the color, especially not the cut. Luckily for Reese, she's not only a gorgeous girl on the outside but she's gorgeous on the inside so shortly after she started talking I completely forgot about what looks like a high school mascot got shredded to bits by the rival team and glued back together as a dress. Or something like that.

Last, but certainly not least, Jennifer Aniston in Valentino. For those of you who may not know (ie. those of you don't give a shit about the Oscars unlike your up-too-late on a school night friend here), Jennifer presented two awards shortly into the night with actor Jack Black. In front of Brad and Angelina. Directly in front of. As in they were seated in the front row of what is typically the orchestra pit. As in Angie was on Jennifer's lap. And I can't imagine how uncomfortable that had to be for all of them. Awkward. I think Jennifer is adorable and quite honestly, I feel for her. For all the "uncools" she kind of held it together quite well while the ENTIRE world talked about her love life ad nauseum for what, five years? I'd say she's pretty kick ass. However, I'd like to put her stylist out of a job. Valentino? Gorgeous. Classic. Silver? Ok, pretty, shiney, light colors were very in this year. Braid in hair? Cute, quirky, very California girl. BUT COME ON!!! Can someone please hook her up with some Vivienne Westwood or Alexander McQueen? Or maybe even ask Tom Ford for a favor??? Golden Rule of relationship take 'n bakes: if you have to show up directly in front of the ex and the ex snatcher, do it with a bang! It's kind of like still putting on lipstick when you've had the flu for 2 days. Pointless but oh so necessary.

Represent, girls, represent.


xoxoxo, kvlm