13 February 2011

More from New York

Prabal Gurung

Um, wow. I am so very in love with this collection -- the color palette, the slightly unkemptness of it all and to find it was inspired by the fading Miss Havisham, well, as a literary lover, it makes me love it even more. (Although I would like to disclaim that Great Expectations has never made its way into my canon of favorites, I can completely get behind any literary reference in fashion as long as it as beautiful and as misfit as this.)

When I got done watching the show all I could say is, Prabal Gurung is a genius. It's that simple.

Jill Stuart

If you didn't click on the first trio of shots to see the detail in the very literal interpretation by Jill Stuart of Heidi Specker's photographs of the Black Forest in Germany, you are missing out. If you said to me, at any given moment in my life, there will be a dress with owls on it and you will fall head over heels to wear this dress, I would have laughed. If I don't have said dress, I may in fact implode!

What I love best about this collection, other than the colors and her interpretation of those photographs, is that she took something very organic -- which could have gone the way of being entirely too earth mother -- and made it sing with variety, feminism, and a hint of glamour. I love the way the pleating on the dresses almost feels like the unfolding wing of a bird perched high on a limb in the navy blue glow during the pitch of night.

What I also love about this line is that I don't tend to be seduced easily by Stuart's line -- to no offense of her, she is a fantastic designer. I've always liked but not necessarily loved it. This, well this I love. Every single piece of it.


Irish designer for Edun Sharon Wauchob is another new favorite in my book. At first, I was drawn just to the silhouette of these designs but on further inspection, I was completely wowed by the prints. The third just reminds me of the sea after a storm and the other two of mosaics. However, it seems that Wauchob found her inspiration in Romany culture, specifically wallpapers from the period. Stunning.

Vivienne Tam

Tam's collection was inspired by the Chinese Opera. I typically fall for her prints with her ancestral influence injected in every thread, but with this collection, I really struggled to find three that I liked. But you know I wasn't there and live, it was probably a wonderful show. The second reminds me of an old piano shawl and is therefore my absolute favorite. The more casual pieces were a bit heavy in my opinion compared to the delicacy of these frocks.

United Bamboo

Oh, phenomenal outerwear! How I love thee so! Also love the mix of navy, gray and black. It's soft military/menswear-esque, super feminine and although the outerwear seems very heavy, it's softened every so perfectly by the lady like shoes and legwear. I want.


Strolling through the footage of the threeASFOUR show, I couldn't help but think, "I can't see the clothes!" Turns out I wasn't the only one as this was a common complaint coming from all editors-at-large and the minions beneath them (just fyi, I am at least like a 30th tier minion as far as my ranking goes in the fashion press -- essentially, I don't rank so minions be insulted not!)

The show was inspired by stringed instruments and the relationship of sound and form. These two looks I thought were very interesting and cut really well. I am coveting the leather jacket with those pants! But overall, the collection was just too literal for my liking and I think the production took away from the mission I think they were trying to accomplish.


All I have to say is that designers Max Osterweis and Erin Beatty said they were inspired by old ladies and that I love. I have the pleasure of having several very fashionable older ladies in my life, both personally and professionally so I get how you would be inspired by them.

I also love and want all three of these dresses with their slightly crazy pattern mix and stacked shoes. Come to think of it, I'll also take the hair.

Mandy Coon

Stark and severe but I love the proportions and am now officially hooked on the long full skirt and dare I say, this Fall RTW showing has quite possibly triggered a desire in me for leather. But then I love a strong, dark, powerful female. Tres chic!


Ah, Libertine! There you are! I was starting to worry...it's been awhile since last we talked.

So it turns out that Libertine didn't disappear, they were just maybe in cocoon mode waiting for this fresh energy to turn out this totally color 'wow' collection. I love the symbiosis of 60's inspired shapes with this veritable mixture of matrix prints. I am especially coveting the coat on the far right.

Kimberly Ovitz

On the one hand, she's a young designer who is still finding her legs. On the other hand, she's got that yellow and black dress pretty much down to a laser-cut science. I like the first look because, well, it's moody (keep your comments to yourself). And although I don't fully understand the straight-jacket-come-sweater on the far right (nor the strange pants lurking underneath), I like it. It makes me want a rainy day and a cup of hot tea.

Jeremy Blaing

I'm a sucker for draping. When I was in fashion design school, it was absolutely my favorite class outside of history of costume. These pieces are beautifully and magically draped. The middle is practically an Erte come to life and that coat is just divine.


I'll admit I have never been aboard the G-Star parade float. The line has always been so over the top that I couldn't bear to even make it through the whole show. But I like this collection -- it feels a bit more grown-up, a hair more chic and definitely better edited.

Again with the leather -- I may be developing a habit.


Wasn't my favorite doo.ri collection to date but I am a sucker for this shade of blue and black together. The draping, too...amazing. Of course she's known for that. I also love the boots.

Costello Tagliapietra

The collection was inspired by the '70's and the '90's. What caught my eye most was definitely the color and the flow of the dresses! Gorgeous and romantic, I want every one -- especially the green. What an amazing dress and what a unique shade. And what is this I see? Bare legs -- may be the first I've seen out of any of the fall collections. It's so what I'm used to having given up most legwear ages ago; now, of course, I find myself in Givenchy hosiery almost daily if there is a skirt or dress involved.


Also inspired by the '90's, specifically grunge and Kate Moss' penchant for wearing tiny-argyle-nothings under huge parkas during that decade, Altuzarra managed to nail the look without going too nostalgic. It's just simply sexy and I dig that.

Amazing collection considering that designer Adam Lippes lost almost his entire collection weeks before the show to a fire; he was able to salvage his show, quite brilliantly, with the help of -- get this -- a nearby knitting circle. What a story to tell. The show itself told a story of Native American infused indigenous-looking knits, dresses, and separates to much aplomb.

Alexander Wang

It's a good thing I overindulged on coffee this morning because getting to the end of this takes a lot of energy! So much to think about, so much to write! If you've made it this far, I thank you. Alexander Wang delivered to me what I was so dearly missing from Rag and Bone this year -- some downtown powergirl chic. I adore the skinny pant in pink -- and, no, I can't believe those words came out of my mouth either but paired with the heavy black, they look tough. They are also available in blue! Fabulous.

Ok, my pets, more to come!


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